Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
